Zagreb - Naive Art

A statue of Petrica Kerempuh looks over the Zagreb Market. He’s the Croatian equivalent of Punch or Till Eulenspiegel, the Joker: a folk character who makes fun of everyone, reminding us to laugh in the face of misfortune. So, he’s depicted as a troubadour, singing to a hanged man!

Just off the Market area we came upon a 6-foot tall painted egg. It sat outside a Croatian Naïve Art store and portrayed the countryside in summer on one side and winter on the other, as you walked around it; the store was closed but we liked the style so much we went in search of the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art to see more examples. Ironically, on the way, I peeped down an alleyway and spied painted figures on doors.

So, on our second day we climbed to Gradec, or Gornji Grad, the second hill in Zagreb old town to seek out the museum. We’d intended to ride the historic funicular railway, but it was closed for renovation. We’re not getting any younger and it was a steep climb but we were rewarded by a delightful piece of graffiti, a crowned cat, painted in the pedestrian tunnel that runs under the railway.

We reached the top and headed for the Church of St Mark. Famous for its strikingly tiled roof bearing the flags of Croatia and Zagreb, this building sits in the centre of a square facing the Parliament Buildings. Built in the 13^th Century, only the Gothic entrance with its niches remains from that time; the tiles were added in 1882. We went inside the church after being refused entry to Parliament – the guard looked bemused that I’d asked him…

After relaxing in the sun in a street side café with a coffee, we headed to the Museum of Naïve Art, just as it opened. “You can take as many pictures as you like, but no flash please,” the woman that sold us our tickets said. So, I did. I fell in love with the pictures and have included segments here. Folk art, or naïve art as it’s called here, featuring paintings by largely untrained artists, is an important aspect of Croatian culture. The topics are mostly religious or country life inspired but very powerful and often violent images.

Sitting right across from this museum is another gem – the Museum of Broken Relationships. This museum has been open for 10 years and features the remnants of failed relationships; it has proven so successful that it’s been on a world tour and now has a sister museum in L.A. There are many exhibits including the spiteful Toaster of Vindication, but the thing that still sticks in my brain is an axe used by a woman to chop up her ex lover’s furniture.

Vecenaj: Evangelists on Calvary, Kovacic: Woman in Winter

I finished our visit to this part of town by scaling the first, and easiest, of many sets of wooden steps I’d climb on our Croatian journey. These stairs sit in the Tower of Lotrscak and I climbed to the top where a gallery offers spectacular views over the city. On the way up I noticed a rope that hung all the way down; a sign was tied to it saying: ‘Do Not Pull the Bell Rope!’ I was tempted.

Church of St Mark, Gornji Grad, Zagreb

Croatia - Arrival in Zagreb

Old Town Zagreb Skyline - Cathedral far right

We landed in Zagreb and took a cab to our downtown hotel, well almost. It stopped about 100 yards from our lodging in a street jammed with taxis – the downtown is a pedestrian area and we had to trundle our suitcases the last bit on foot. Our hotel opened out onto the Joseph Jelachich Square, busy with tourists and locals alike but, apart from the frequent trams, no motor traffic. This square is the centre of the Old Town and sits at the edge of a plain. Towering above are two hills Gradec and Kaptol separated by a creek, now buried; warring states inhabited the hills and the creek was known as the river of blood. They were united as Zagreb in 1851 by Jelachich - commemorated by a statue that dominates the square.

Joseph Jelachich Statue

Patios and the awnings of bars and restaurants sprawl around the square and the streets that lead from it, and on a hot June afternoon it didn’t take much persuasion to go grab a cold one. I opted for one of the Croatian beers that was to become a favoured companion as we traveled the country, Ojusko. People chatted and laughed as they unwound from their week with a warmth that typifies the Croatians we met.

Cathedral Door

Feeling refreshed, we walked up to the Cathedral that dominates Kaptol. Like Italy, its neighbour to the west, Croatia is a deeply Catholic country. The following day was a Sunday and the Cathedral was abuzz with celebration. Priests in green cassocks bearing large crosses, bands in traditional Croatian costumes, and soldiers in period uniforms mixed with residents in their Sunday best, as they poured into the church. It reminded me of when I was a boy… The cathedral is a beautiful building despite its destruction in an earthquake in 1880.

 When the service ended, the throng formed a parade and marched down into the square. A large group of traditional singers formed a semi-circle and sang as Carol photo-bombed them – see if you can find her...

Folk Singers

But the festivities in the sun were about to end; it was late afternoon and a massive thunderstorm erupted over the city; a weather pattern we were to see every day we stayed in the capital. We ran to our hotel and looked out to see people running in every direction looking as if they would drown.

The Flower Market

Another major attraction of Kaptol is the market. I got up at 5:30am to take photos before the crowds, but the market was already busy as traders set up their stalls laying out the freshest, plumpest fruit and vegetables you’ve ever seen. And flowers, such bright, sweet-smelling flowers… I was puzzled by a row of large oblong stainless steel ‘barbeques’ only to realize when I returned that they were fridges from which cheese, cold meat and other deli products were dispensed. Large wicker baskets of eggs sat in front of them where people crouched and made their selection.

That evening we encountered another tradition. We wined and dined at a restaurant just off the square and at the end of our meal the waiter insisted on giving us each a glass of brandy. Carol opted for cherry; I had Slivovitza. Now, I don’t drink very much, and liquor is really not my thing, but the Croatians are so warm and friendly - it was a gift, after all; I just couldn’t say no. I have to say, it went down very well – and no hangover.

Soldiers march into the Square