SIbenik Cathedral

On the way to Zadar, we took a side trip for lunch in Sibenik famous for its magnificent Cathedral of St James, a World Heritage Site that dominates the city. It’s considered the most important Renaissance building in Croatia and is the only Cathedral in Europe constructed entirely of stone – no wood was used in its construction – hard to believe when you look up at the dome. Commenced in the 15^th century, it took more than 100 years to build, this due to funding issues and resulting change of architects.

Sibenik Cathedral Heads

Its most unique features are the more than 70 heads that pop out of a frieze around the exterior. They are remarkably well-preserved, vibrant, portrayals of ordinary people, associates of the original architect George of Dalmatia (Juraj Dalmatinac in Croatian); peasants, fishermen, soldiers, even children. They made me think of the wall ornaments (Bossons Chalkware heads) that decorated my Auntie Queen’s walls in the 1960’s, but these have lasted more than 500 years. A good opportunity for fridge magnets, although a lot smaller…

The statues of Adam and Eve that frame the northern portal or Lion Gate court some controversy. Each standing above a lion, Adam is covering his chest while Eve is concealing her stomach, although not well enough to hide her superfluous belly button – the Bible says she was made from Adam’s rib, rather than born of woman.

Unfortunately, the cathedral was under renovation when we visited but the splendour of the interior shone through the scaffolding. Carol stopped to light a candle for her friend, as she often does, before we descended into the baptistery where I was struck, not by the font, but by the lacey carvings in the ceiling. Walking back down the aisle we stopped to look at the perfectly symmetrical stained glass rose window above the main entrance.

As we headed to lunch an ancient lion emerged from the ground, as if preparing a surprise attack. We stopped for lunch on the river, overlooking the luka (harbour). No surprise to anyone, but an emerging theme of our holiday, was the amount I drank. Marc always ordered a large Ojusko, while I ordered a small one. The surprise in Sibenik was we finally realized that my beer was almost the same price as Marc’s. From that point on we both ordered large and we shared mine.

Large or small, the beauty of Sibenik was well worth the detour.

Sibenik Cathedral - Baptistery Ceiling

Cruising the Kornati Islands

We booked passage on the Arbiana, well; we booked a daytrip to a few of the Kornati Islands that lay to the west of Zadar aboard this old wooden ship. It was less than half full and had a well stocked bar. We left around 8:30 am and they served breakfast shortly after; a tasty ham and cheese bun served with a small glass of clear fluid. I said to Carol: “Whoa, they are stingy on the water,” but then I tasted it and realized it was Slivovitz. Most of the passengers were German so they called it Schnapps – perfect for breakfast! It certainly got everyone talking to each other.

The Arbiana in Dugi Otok Bay

We sailed away from the coast of Croatia and cruised among the islands. By late morning we’d reached Dugi Otok, a haven for scuba diving, the island furthest from the mainland. We moored in a secluded bay to the south of the island in Telashchica Park. It was time for a beer so we disembarked and walked around the bay to a small restaurant. The servers were overwhelmed with customers from a couple of other boats, so I walked into the bar and ordered a beer. Carol fancied Prosecco – I asked the barman. “Water?” he said, not understanding my English.

Island Ice Cream Man

“No, Prosecco wine,” I said.

“Ah, Prosek?” he responded.

“Yes…” He poured a small glass and I could see that it was dark and not a sparkling wine. I looked skeptical so he made to pour it back in the bottle. “No,” I said, “I’ll take it.”

Carol liked it and I had a tiny sip – it reminded me of sherry. Turns out the Prosek vs Prosecco naming had been a major Eurozone controversy.

We climbed the hill behind the café, and reached a cliff that looked east into the open Adriatic – the sun was blistering despite the breeze. Then we walked along a cool woodland path to the salt Lake Mir, a mecca for sunbathers and swimmers. We had no bathing gear so just relaxed in the warm shade beside the lake.

Adriatic from Dugi Otok clifftop

Back on the boat as it slipped out of the bay we seated ourselves for lunch; fresh fish and coleslaw, with local wine. We were sat with an Indian family, now living in Frankfurt, and as we all struggled with the number of bones in the fish, the father said: “Back in India, we’d eat this with our hands – then the bones wouldn’t be a problem.” I switched to using my fingers and he was right; it was so easy to find and avoid them.

Kukljica Jesus

What we couldn’t avoid were the seagulls. As the smell of fish rose in the air, they descended upon us ducking, weaving and squawking. The diners that had given up on their fish threw it to them increasing the frenzy. And, we had to watch out for the birds depositing missiles on us where we sat – we were literally under attack. Finally, lunch was over and they were gone, as quickly as they’d arrived!

We sailed lazily back through the islands laying back in our chairs taking in the afternoon sun; many fell asleep and regretted it, I’m sure, unless they were slathered with SPF130. As the sun went down we docked at the sleepy fishing port of Kukljica. Before stopping for a glass of wine there, we walked up to the small church above the harbour. I couldn’t help noticing that the statue above the door looked a lot like ‘Buddy Jesus’.

Sadly, it was time for the short hop back to Zadar and to bid Auf Wiedersehen to our newfound friends. For some reason we were exhausted!

Seagulls Attack!

Boatmen of Zadar

A major hub of the Roman Empire, later ruled by Byzantium, Venice, and then the Turks, Zadar is a city that’s seen more of its share of destruction. Part of fascist Italy in the Second World War, the Allies bombed it heavily and again it came under attack in the Serb/Croatia conflict. Although restored, its scars are easy to see. The historic walled city sits on a peninsula. From where we stayed, there were two practical ways to get there: on foot across the only bridge, or by grabbing a ride in a boat.

St Donat in the Forum

Zadar has a short cut across the mouth of the harbour. An old man rows you across in a rowboat. Little more than a dinghy, it holds about eight people, and the oarsman (Barka) stands up all the way. There are plenty of seats but, here's the strange thing, despite the buffeting of waves caused by seagoing traffic, almost all of the patrons stand up too. It's a thing to behold seeing a row boat filled with adults, many in suits and the like, standing as the rowboat edges its way across the channel, dipping and swaying as it goes; and, all for a dollar (50p) each way.

From Women’s Gallery in St Donat’s 

The centre of the city is the old Roman Forum but is bordered by churches and monasteries, among the Roman ruins. I went to town early one morning and crept just inside the door of the Benedictine Monastery. A choir of nuns sat at the other end, to one side near the altar, chanting – it sounded so beautiful it made the hair stand up on the back of my neck. The spell was broken when a large man in a black habit, tied with rope round the waist, pulled open the door and looked at me before striding down the aisle. I left.

Cathedral of St Anastasia facade

Across the Forum is the church of St Donat, a striking, circular building constructed using Roman remains – you can see the embellishments on the stones. No longer used for religious services, it is now used for concerts. It has wonderful acoustics – Carol and I sang as we walked through it.

A tower stands next to St Donat’s and, of course, I climbed it; revealing great shots of the city and of St Donat’s. No fear here though, the staircase was enclosed. The tower dominates the Zadar skyline and is actually part of Saint Anastasia’s Cathedral. This cathedral, containing its saint's relics, is another beautiful Catholic creation. It has a spectacular façade: look for the lion (St Mark) and the bull (St Luke) protruding from the top, at the base of the roof.

Soccer fans

The Croatian team was playing soccer in the UEFA Cup and its evidence was everywhere. We went for supper in the city at Restaurant Groppo and there was a table of fans – I had a picture with the most outspoken guy. Typically, this guy engaged with other diners, even offering his hat to a young lad he clearly didn’t know (the boy wanted to ask his dad before accepting it). We watched several of the games on TV while we traveled through Croatia, sometimes in Croatian, sometimes Italian, but mostly in German.

Listening to the Sea Organ

Modern Zadar is famous for its Sea Organ – it’s not what you think. Several holes, tubes really, are set in a promenade along the seafront; these tubes go down into the sea and as the waves go back and forth the water level changes. And it’s windy, so as the wind blows along the top of the tubes – like blowing across the top of a bottle. It sounds lovely. I crouched to get closer although you could hear it half a mile away.

But, it was time to head for the Barka and home; standing room only!

Zadar from the sea with Dinaric Alps beyond